Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Drafting a pattern for a Bombay cutting blouse

If the length for the blouse is, 131/2 inches, the length for the back part needs to be 14 inches and 1 inches extra for the front. That is the length for the front part will be 15 inches as it has to be cut and stitched at various points that will lead to reduction in the former length taken.
Take proper measurements. Suppose Length is 13 ½ inches,chest is 36 inches, shoulder is 14 inches, we have the following calculations for it.
Length for the back is 13 ½ inches+ ½ inches = 14 inches.
Length for the front is 13 ½ inches+ 1 inch = 15 inches (the difference in the lengths of the front and back is due to the reason that it has to be cut and stitched at various points that will lead to reduction in the former length taken)
Chest = 36/4 = 9+2 = 11
Shoulder = 14/2 = 7+ ½ = 7 ½
The measurement of waist is not required now but later when the entire pattern is worked out that is, at the time of stitching the sides of blouse. 
STEPS
1.       Fold the material into two folds with the locked part towards left and mark it at a length of 14 inches. On the top, measure 7 ½ from the left towars right and mark it. From thst point draw a line straight below at 7 inches. Now as shown in the image mark the chest from the left towards right at 11 inches. Mark at a point at the right side by measuring the length below from the chest at 4 ½ inches. As shown in the next image measuring from the left towards right, mark at 5 inches on the line of chest. Similarly mark at 6 inches on the point that falls at 4 ½ inches below chest.  Mark the pattern for the neck as well. As shown in the second image, give such a sort of a mark. Now draw the pattern as that in the third image. The points marked earlier needs to be followed.

1.       Cut as shown

The parts that are to be kept are shown below, while the other are to be discarded.

1.       Fold a piece of cloth having a length of 4 ½ inches and breadth of 16 inches in the centre. Keep the closed part on the left. Measure 4 inches at the top from the left towards right and mark it.  From this point draw such a pattern towards right that goes down 1 inches below. Cut it along this line. Open the fold and cut in the centre to make two equal parts. Stitch a dart allowance at the centre that begins at 1 ½ inches from below and ends at the top in a slanting manner. As shown in the second image below.



1.       After the dart allowance has been done, the piece stitched looks like the one below in the second image. Stitch the rest of the pieces as shown.

For the back part of the blouse, a simple cutting is necessary as we do for a simple


1.       Join the shoulder tops of both sides.
1.       Now add a piping 1 inches wide and stitch at both the sides at the front where hooks have to be added as shown in the image below. Tuck it in neatly and do a hemming at the front blouse part where hooks have to be stitched while the other part that will remain below needs a fine stitch. Stitch a piping throughout the neck of both front and back parts and also the arm opening and tuck it in neatly. Use can do a fine hemming or a machine stitch. 
1.       Add dart allowances at the back part of the blouse. Now stitch the sides. 















Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Drafting a pattern for a summer frock or nighty

DRAFTING A PATTERN FOR A SUMMER FROCK OR A NIGHTY


 No matter if it may be a frock or a nighty, loose cotton dresses are an ideal outfit for summer. To help my readers draft out an easy design form a summer frock or a nighty, I have posted this blog. It will guide you through the systematic and appropriate method of cutting a summer frock. This dress when stitched till the knee length, looks like a frock and if the length is kept longer below the knees or till the ankle level, it makes a wonderful nighty. So in this regard I, have mentioned the steps as follows.

STEPS
Take the accurate body measurements. Measure the shoulder, the full circumference of the arms from the underarms, full round measurement of the bust, length of shoulder till the flat part above the bust and the length for the dress. Also keep mind the breadth and depth for the neck. This dress needs to be cut into two parts, one for the upper that is till the flat part above the bust and the other that is to be joined from this part till the knees or as longer as you prefer.

1.       The material on which the upper segment of the dress needs to be cut is to be folded in such a way that the cloth has four folds breath wise so that when the cloth is opened after cutting it has two distinct parts. One for the front and the other for the back. Mark the measurements and cut it and open to find two distinct parts.
2.      
The breadth for the lower segment of the dress should be more as we need to make plates on it. It depends upon the breadth of the material about how much plates and how big plates we make. The fabric needs to be cut breadth wise into two equal pieces and then plates are to be made on it as shown. It should be kept in mind that after making the plates, the breadth of the either parts of both front and back part of dress where plates have been made should jointly be of the size of the bust with two extra inches.
3.    
   Join the upper segment of the dress with the lower segment of both the front and back. If you prefer to add a piping in between them you can do it now.
4.     
  Join the shoulder tops and add piping to the neck part and at the part of arm opening.
5.    
   Stitch the body sides. Give a fine hemming at base of the frock or you may stitch it. If you prefer you can add  piping or ribbon as well.


Monday, 30 June 2014

Face framing layers with bangs

The haircut that Priyanka Chopra has had in the movie Anjana Anjaani is a combination of bangs and feather. The haircut is cut at various degrees for different sections. . This haircut is better suited for natural straight or wavy hair as the real effects of the haircut will be seen visible in such hair types. This haircut has face framing layers that ends at the shoulders and has steps at the back that add bounce to the hair. This haircut gives volume to the upper segment of the hair and movement to the lower segment of the hair.Here I, have given a detailed information about how the haircut needs to be done. I, have attached some suitable images for better understanding.
STEPS 


1.       Make a hair section that has ear to ear section in the front. Ear to ear section is taken by making a centre or middle parting of hair from the front till back. Place your second finger on top of the left  ear of client and run the comb from the line of centre parting sideways so that it ends till the top of ear and has a clean section. Similarly follow on the other side. These are the two sections at front. The third section is the the box section. The front box section will end within the ear to ear section. The box section starts from the hairline just above the pointed part of eyebrows towards back till the line falling at ear to ear section. Lock this section and the other two sections on the front on either sides of the front box section.
2.       Following the lines of the box section at the front go backwards till the nape area to cover back box area. Lock this section and also the other two sections at both the sides of the back box section. The total number of locks will be three in the front and three at back.
3.    
   Open the locked section towards the left of front box section. Comb properly and pull the hair on the right side by resting the hair on the forehead. Make sure it touches the forehead and is tightly gripped by the two fingers. Chop off in a straight line at the side as shown below. Similarly follow the step on the right part by combing the hair towards left. This sort of cut helps to get face framing layers. Do not touch the front box area now.
4.      


The second step in this sort of cut is to chop the layers shaded below by pulling it towards the front as done earlier the left part of the hair should touch the forehead and go towards right. Following the last guideline of the front it needs to be chopped off.  Do not cut the entire shaded area at a time but take small amounts of hair so that you get a clean cut. Follow the same step on the other part.
5.      
Now is the turn for the back box area. Comb the entire back box area and raise it up straight at 180 degrees. Following the guideline of the crown area chop it off in a straight line or in a slanting manner as shown in the image. This cut helps to form various  steps at the back which adds bangs and bounce to the hair.
6.      
Come to the front towards the box area. Take a small section and cut it at nose or lip level at 0 degree that is a straight cut. This becomes a guideline for cutting the entire box area at front. Comb it and raise it at 180 degree and following the guideline that has been derived by the cut just made at 0 degree, chop the rest of the hair.

7.       Now let the hair fall naturally by making a centre parting. Comb the hair at the left side and check to see if the layers are connected to one another. If disconnection is seen at any point, use the slicing method to create clean and connected layers. Repeat on the other side as well. The front layers start from the nose or lip level and end creating a feather cut sort of look with steps as that seen in reverse graduation at the back.

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Stitching tutorial for an 'A' line kurti or dress

A LINE DRESS OR AN A LINE KURTI


An A line dress is a simple dress from which various other dresses can be made with a little creativity added onto it. If the length for this dress is kept above the knees, it can be worn as a kurti and if the length is kept till the knees or below it, it can be worn as a one piece dress. It is an ideal outfit for summers. It can also be used as a summer night dress. This cute design gives a curved figure look.  Here, I have explained the steps for drafting a pattern for such a dress.
STEPS
1.       
 Take proper measurements of the body. Measure the shoulder, chest, waist and length for the dress. The upper part of the dress ends till the bust level, so measure the part above chest  and also the length from the shoulder till bust level. Keep 1 inch extra as it needs to be stitched.
2.      
Fold the fabric into four parts with the closed part towards left. Measuring from the left towards right, mark the shoulder towards the top of right.From the shoulder, mark below till the bust level.  The body measurements like chest, waist hip etc needs to be divided by 4 as the dress needs to be cut in four folds. If the shoulder is 14, it becomes 7 when we mark it in 4 folds. This is because when we open the fold after cutting, two distinct parts, one for the front and the other for the back are formed whose shoulder length will be measuring 14 inches each.
3.       Similarly fold the fabric in the centre so that two folds are formed, which again needs to be folded in the centre with the closed part falling towards left. Mark the length of the dress from the bust level till the knee or a little longer  as you prefer. The measurements for the chest and waist needs to be divided by 4. Measuring from the closed part on the left mark ithe measurements on the on the right side. Add some inches extra to this as you will be stitching it in the form of a design.

4.     

  Mark 4-5 straight lines on both sides of the front part of the dress and stitch it. Iron it properly. Keep the back part of the dress simple.


5.      



Cut a cloth piece for the piping. Fold it in the centre and stitch it in such a way so that the enclosed part faces below as seen . Now bring thre upper part of the dress and stitch it as shown in the picture. The stitch should be above the white line as shown in the first image below. Similarly, stitch the back part of the dress.


6.      

Now is the time to cut for the piping of the neck. If you prefer your piping to be visible , use the piping that we normally cut in a slanting manner. If you prefer a neatly tucked in finish for the neck, the piping required is as shown in the image. Fold the part of the dress in the centre whose neck piping needs to be cut. Fold another fabric with the closed part towards left. Place it as shown in the image below and martk it. Remove the dress and then add another mark below the original mark. It needs to be of 1 inch. Cut it and stitch as shown.
Tuck it in properly and do a fine hemming. You can also stitch it. Similarly give a good finishing to the back neck part .


7.      
Join the shoulder tops and apply piping to the arm opening.  Join the body and if you wish to have a well fitted dress you can now use the accurate measurements but the  lower part should be broad, giving the dress an ‘A’ sort of look.

Wednesday, 11 June 2014

Understanding the process of hair colour

UNDERSTANDING THE PROCESS OF HAIR COLOUR
 The following chart shows the numbering given to natural base hair colours by professional brands. Natural base hair colours are the natural hair colours which does not have any other reflection or shine. Such hair colours are used to conceal the grey hair or if said in professional term, it is used for grey hair coverage.  Numbers 1, 3 and 4 are the quality of hair found mostly in people belonging to Asia. In spite of this people having natural base 1 and 3 are very rare. Numbers 5-10 are usually found in European people while people having a natural hair colour 9 and 10 are very rarely found.
NUMBER
NATURAL BASE
UNDERCOAT
10
Very very light blonde
Paliest yellow
9
Very light blonde
Pale yellow
8
Light blonde
Yellow
7
Blonde
Yellow orange
6
Dark blonde
Orange
5
Light brown
Red orange
4
Brown
Red
3
Dark brown
Red
1
Black
Red

Very often when people are not satisfied with their natural base and want to move to other natural base hair colours.  This is done by mixing natural base hair colours with activator or volume. Only hair colour tubes are not sufficient to colour a hair. Unless activator or volume is added to it, the hair colour wont get activated.
Most commonly sold volumes are as follows
·         10 volume or 3%- It is used for one level lifting
·         20 volume or 6% It is used for two level lifting.
·         30 volume or 9% It is used for three level lifting
·         40 volume or 12% It is used for four level lifting
Very often the mixing ratio of professional hair colours like Wella, Matrix and Schwarzhoph  are 1:1 where for a 60 gram tube, 60ml volume is used.  In some hair colours like loreal the mixing ratio is 1:1 ½ where for a 50 gram tube, 75 ml volume is used.  

When 20, 30 or 40 volume does not show results by providing the desired shade, prelightning needs to be done. It is used only when moving from a dark pigment natural base to a lighter one. Some hair pigments are very dark and hence it becomes difficult to colour such hair. Prelightning is a technical, professional word used for Bleaching. Hence the undercoat is the colour that is derived to the natural base after prelightning. After the undercoat is derived, colour is applied to the hair. Now colour is easily absorbed by the hair as the hair has now become lighter. This was about natural base hair colours. Others hair colours available are of different shades for reflection or shine or for highlighting. To learn about it, follow the next blog.

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Tutorial for stitching a patiala


Here is an easy guide to stitching Patiala along with pictures. A Patiala usually requires a material of 3 metres. Length of the Patiala should be measured from the waist till the thumb of leg. Suppose we have the following measurements.
Length= 37+ 2 inches= 39 inches
 Waist band: length= 8 inches and breath= (size of waist + 10 inches extra = 30+8= 38 inches)
We have a waist band of 8 inches therefore the length of the Patiala where plates are going to be made needs to be 8 inches lesser than the former length. 39-8= 31 inches. Three parts needs to be cut for a Patiala. They are explained below.

1.       Waist band measuring 8 inches long and 38 inches wide.
2.       The second part should be 40 inches wide and 31 inches long. It should be folded in the centre and again folded so that four layers are formed. The closed part should be on the left hand side. Now the breadth measures 10 inches. The mohari should be cut for the leg opening of the Patiala. From the left measure 8 inches towards right and mark it. From this point measure four inches up and mark it with a chalk in the right corner. Join these two lines as shown in the picture and cut it off.
3.       The third is the most important part. Its length is always 4 inches lesser than the length of the second part. The more the breadth of this part, more plates can be made. So keep the entire breadth but the length = 31-4= 27. Mark the length by measuring from top towards bottom. At 27 inches draw a 2 inch line towards right as shown. Now from the top of the right hand measure 7/8 inches below and mark it. From this mark, draw a 1 inch line towards left and then join the left end of this line with the right end of the 2 inches line at the bottom. Cut it along the lines and open the fold to find the pattern as shown below. 

1.       The first pattern shown above needs to be cut in the centre and the other and the second should be cut along the left corner to yield two pieces each having a width od 20 inches and 31 inches long.
2.       Now join them from within as shown. Similarly join the other part.

1.       Once the above step is completed, join them at this point on both sides.

1.       Now is the turn for making plates. Begin making plates from the front side taking 1 inch on top of the other and use needle and thread to secure the plates. Once you have reached till the side stop and make plates on the other side. Use your waist band to see if it can be joined above the plates. the plates at the back should be holded this way.
The number of plates to be made depends upon the width of your material and length of your waist band. There should be exactly such number of pla